What to do in Montreal to take in all its quirky glory: tour the architecture, cruise around the water, visit a famous dive bar

Thanks to its status as one of the oldest cities in the country, Montreal has some of the most fascinating architecture in Canada: a jumble of 17th-century stonework mixed with opulent Beaux Arts buildings and 1960s brutalist strongholds. Right down the street from the Basilique Notre-Dame (currently home to a ticketed immersive multimedia experience called “Aura”), palatial marble and mahogany-filled bank buildings from the 1800s sit, waiting to be admired. Unlike similar buildings in New York City that require a security pass for entry, in Montreal you can simply walk in off the street and sip coffee underneath the magnificent cathedral ceilings of the former Royal Bank building (now the coworking space Crew Collective & Café), or relax in the InterContinental Montreal lobby, formerly the Nordheimer piano factory, amid stained-glass light fixtures and intricate tile-patterned floors. Book a “Beyond the Basilica” walking tour with Spade & Palacio to learn about the treasures that await on the streets.

On the water

For approximately the price of a fancy gourmet sandwich, you can hop aboard an electric boat with Le Petit Navire and see the Old Port district from the breezy vantage point of the St. Lawrence River. The guided 45-minute tours ($25 per adult) depart from Jacques-Cartier Pier and zoom past the cluttered cubes of Habitat 67 (the city’s distinctive housing complex), a small waterfall, and the blue-and-white tents of Cirque du Soleil. From the boat, catch a stunning glimpse of the city skyline, complete with a view of the landmark cross perched at the top of Mont-Royal.

At a long-favoured restaurant

Located in the post-industrial neighbourhood of St-Henri, Le Vin Papillon remains a gem in Montreal’s crowded culinary scene. Ten years since its inception, the bistro continues to delight with its classic yet unpretentious approach to food and hyper-local rotating chalkboard menu. Case in point: the eatery earned a spot on the 2023 list of Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants. Standout dishes include the boeuf cru “pan con tomate,” a heap of beef tartare infused with umami-rich heirloom tomatoes served alongside a charred, crispy baguette; the deceptively simple jambon de Petite Bourgogne, toast stacked with thinly shaved ribbonettes of ham that melt on the tongue; and the crunchy endive salad topped with grassy Fleur des Monts cheese.

Through its nightlife scene

There may or may not be toilet paper in the bathroom of Les Foufounes Électriques, the famous dive bar whose name translates to “the electric buttocks,” but this music venue has played host to such legendary acts as Radiohead and Nirvana. The drinks are cheap ($7 bar rail), the decor is weird (giant skull sculptures), and the lighting is neon. According to local music enthusiasts, Montreal has one of the most vibrant hardcore punk scenes in North America, and on a recent evening, Beef and Electric Chair battled it out in the mosh pit. If you can get past the sticky, graffiti-covered interior, this spot is not to be missed.

Isabel Slone travelled as a guest of Bonjour Québec and Tourisme Montréal, which did not review or approve this article.